Here in the Deep south, where most northerners believe there is little change between seasons, autumn is creeping on la prairie tremblante, along the banks of the bayous.
Backbone Stew (Reintier de Cochon)
Ingredients:
1 (6-pound) lean pork loin, with bones, cut into chunks
1 1⁄2 teaspoons salt
1⁄2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2∕3 cup all-purpose flour
1⁄2 cup vegetable oil
2 large onions, chopped
3 stalks celery, chopped
2 sweet green peppers, chopped
4 to 5 cups beef stock or water
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Directions:
Season the pork chunks with the pepper and salt and roll in the flour to coat them lightly. Shake off excess flour. In a heavy, black iron pot, heat the oil and brown the pork chunks well, stirring frequently. Add the onions, celery, and peppers; stir often, cooking until vegetables are wilted. Then add the stock or water and bring to a boil, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot to get the brown particles that make the gravy richer. Reduce to simmer, cover, and allow to cook for about 2 hours or until meat is tender. Serve over rice and sprinkle with chopped parsley. There are some camps that say a backbone stew can be made like a fricassée. To do so, make a roux with equal parts of oil and flour (1 1⁄2 cups of oil and flour), then add the vegetables (same amounts as above) and beef stock. Some like a few slivers of garlic thrown in. If a backbone isn’t available, thinly sliced pork chops can be substituted. Add to the roux and vegetable mixture. Add 2 to 3 cups of beef stock or water and allow to cook until meat is tender.